Always use LNP. Always. So I'd recommend waiting until the v.0.43.02 LNP is out.
LNP makes changing graphics incredibly easy. I vote for Pheobus, it's easy to read.Also use TWBT, it makes it a lot easier to read actual text.
I'm voting for all utilities being okay, save outright DFHack cheating. Visualizers are fine (e.g., Armok Vision and Stonesense), gameplay helpers and organizational aids are okay (like Dwarf Therapist), and autodump and other DFHack commands are okay (but not autodump destroy), since they're something you could do anyway if you had way too much time on your hands.
you can use autodump to take all weapons and armor off invaders. you can use autodump to drop near-infinite anvils on keas. you can use autodump to take things out of aquifers. you can use autodump to move 500 slade boulders in 0 seconds.
autodump is an extremely powerful tool. therefore autodump is not "something you could do anyway if you had way too much time on your hands."