This information on the wiki seems to be right. At least as far as arena mode goes. I think most of the violations of this are down to equipping bugs in fortress mode. As far as I can tell, dwarves are walking around with things equipped which aren't being read as equipped for the purposes of these calculations.
The outline;
1) You can only have one shaped armour piece (marked with [S
]) per body part.
2) The total size of non-cover items must be lower than any armour piece's permit+size total.
3) The total size of all items of any layer on any body part must be lower than the lowest permit value (excluding that item).
4) The total size of all items on any body part must be lower than the size+permit value of any cover item.
5) All items are put on in order of their layer.
As an example, lets say you want to kit out your soldiers upper body. Try walking through this in arena mode to get a feel for it.
You start off with a steel breastplate. This has a size of 20 and a permit of 50. It is also shaped, so you can't add any other shaped items; no more breastplates and no leather armour.
Now you want to add mail shirts. Each one has a permit of 50 and a size of 15. You can add three of these if you want. It checks the size against each of the armour pieces permit + size (or rather, the permit value ignoring that items size in the calculation), like so;
- Against each of the mail shirts, you have 2 x 15 = 30 total size in mail shirts, + 20 from the breastplate, matching the 50 permit.
- Against the breastplate you have 3 x 15 = 45 < 50, fine.
Now if you add a fourth mail shirt these test will fail. However, because of the layering order (mail shirts being armour layer 2, the breastplate armour layer 3) the breastplate is added after the shirts. This results in the breastplate being dropped.
Because this reaches the 50 permit limit for the mail shirts, you can't add more non-cover items without substituting them for existing items. If you want a robe (size 20), for example, you need to remove two of the mail shirts to clear a total size of 30, which then lets you add an extra size 10 shirt, vest or whatever.
However, you can add cover layer items. In this case, cloaks. Each cloak has a size of 15 and a permit of 150. Taking into account the 65 size already on the upper body, we can add 100 size worth of cloaks. This lets us add 6 (x 15 = 90) cloaks over the existing armour.
Going through like this for the rest of the body (most of it is simpler) gives you a final setup of;
1 x breastplate
3 x mail shirts
6 x cloaks
2 x gauntlets
2 x mittens
1 x trousers
1 x greaves
2 x caps
1 x helm
6 x hood
2 x socks
2 x high boots
Of course, so long as the bugs are still around, we are likely to see dwarves wearing more than this or refusing to put parts on because they found their boots before their socks.