As for the other question:
When you pause (space-bar, and *PAUSE* or whatever appears in the top left/whever) you can go into and out of all the information and management screens while action is stationary, spend hours cataloguing your stockpiles, examinging your dwarfs' personalities, assigning animals for butchery as pets, etc...
This was my bigger problem, I think - the lack of graphics is the most conspicuous difference between a "normal" game and DF, but I figured I could adapt to it with time. But the prospect of having to carry out such complex and widespread operations in real time was scary. So it's a huge relief to know that pausing is integral to the gameplay. (I imagined that it would be - or at least that it
should be - but somehow I was made to believe otherwise as I was poking around the forums, the wiki, etc.)
Anyway, that's my take on it. If you're willing to give it a go (and you sound like it) I think you're going to like it. And even if you don't get addicted to the game itself, you may well get addicted to the community you've just joined. 
I haven't even set foot in the game, yet I'm already reading the forums and wiki as if I'm an old veteran. In fact, I think it was the Boatmurdered story that first piqued my DF interest, and I was laughing as I read it even though I totally lacked any insight into the mechanics it was referencing. The game and community have a strange appeal even for someone who hasn't directly experienced it firsthand, it seems.
You're thinking of Stonesense. There's a thread on the modding forum's first page or 2nd page.
That's the one, yeah. I thought at first that it was a graphical overhaul that would let you play the game in isometric 3D, but now I get the sense that it's simply a way to convert static images of your fort into three dimensions without allowing you to actually play that game like that. Either way, I figure I'll stick with just a simple tile replacement at first, if only because it's (closer to) how the game is "meant" to be played.
In the latest version, colors.txt in the init folder has the values for each color used for color-coding and is intended to be easily editable.
In older versions this is at the end of init.txt instead of in its own file.
I'll fiddle with that if the colors end up presenting a problem for me...thanks for the heads-up.