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Messages - OddTheTall

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1
The pictures are nice - though it is obvious that the book was printed a while ago as the research is rather outdated.

<authenticity-rant>
Hilted daggers don't really exist in northern Europe till around 1250. Pre-Conquest knives are almost exclusively single-edged seaxes with bone/wood/antler handles - double-bladed daggers appear around the 12th century but still have organic handles.
I'm pretty sure some of the knight's helms are 50-100 years too late for rest of the armor, and NO HORNS ON HELMETS!! All that is is a nice grip for removing the helm or breaking your neck.
Metal vambraces *might* have existed for a short period of time in the late 13/early 14th century but they were certainly not in use before then. Also, plate gauntlets start appearing in the 14th century so vambraces become somewhat redundant.
I'm also uncomfortable with the way the fabric is patterned. Twills are fine but the patterns in the pre-1066 fabrics are wrong. Post-Conquest there is some patterned fabric, but as far as I am aware, it's in the same color as the rest of the cloth.
Lamellar and scale was vanishingly rare in Western Europe - any early (Post-Roman) armour would be chain-mail and/or padding (ring-mail is primarily a Victorian construction - I can find one reference to it in 1591).
I could keep going in this vein for quite a while. What it boils down to is these are pretty pictures - not accurate reconstructions.
</authenticity-rant>

@wierd Viking/Saxon cloaks tended to be fairly plain - no real decoration on the back though there could be some edging. They would be a large square or rectangle pinned at the shoulder sometimes with tasseled ends. There is some evidence for rare semi-circular cloaks for the higher ranks. Not so sure about later - my knowledge is primarily Dark Age with some forays into early Medieval.

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General Discussion / Re: When Kickstarter Goes Right
« on: June 26, 2012, 06:14:14 pm »
Sorry to drag the thread kicking and screaming on(off?) topic but here's a project to produce a kind of game that I have been wanting since I started reenactment/Western martial arts.
It's a proper swordfighting game - the moves are from the fight manuals of the times.
CLANG

And it even has some relevence to the the prevous conversation!  :P
Incidently, this is a rather amusing video about female armor.

3
Creative Projects / Re: Girlinhat: Proficient Metal Crafter
« on: March 19, 2012, 12:37:39 pm »
From my knowledge of early and dark-age European mail, there was some butted , some rivited (both entierly and half with welded/punched rings) and some Pictish/Celtic stuff with all the rings *welded* closed. I don't even want to imagine how much of a pain that would have been.

4
Creative Projects / Re: Girlinhat: Proficient Metal Crafter
« on: March 09, 2012, 12:20:38 pm »
I've found www.beadsisters.co.uk to be a good supplier. Not sure about relative pricing though...

5
Thought that you might be interested to know that the game works under WINE.

Also, in the mech creation screen, would it be possible to add the option to directly type numbers (like hover height) in for ease of use?

C

6
Creative Projects / Re: My Winter Project - Armour
« on: December 14, 2011, 10:24:22 am »
Lamellar or some form of jack-of-plates would probably be best. The main issue I can think of with lamellar is that drinks cans are pretty thin and the edges are sharp. This would likely cut the lacing or worse, the user.
Jack of plates or brigandine might be a decent option.

7
Creative Projects / Re: Girlinhat: Proficient Metal Crafter
« on: November 11, 2011, 05:39:10 am »
I know it's possible to make similar hooks out of fencing wire - you just need two pairs of sturdy pliers.

8
Creative Projects / Re: Kisame12794: Proficient Blacksmith
« on: October 31, 2011, 02:28:13 pm »
As far as I'm aware, it's a society-only circular - no distribution outside of Regia Anglorum.

I've included some of the sources given in the article below. (Harvard notation)
Spoiler (click to show/hide)

9
Creative Projects / Re: Kisame12794: Proficient Blacksmith
« on: October 31, 2011, 09:27:34 am »
I ran into various references to it in some of the fiction books I have read and in the quick Wikipedia search I did just before my previous post to check that my (vague) memories were correct.

I have now dug up the copy of the Chronicle (the magazine that my reenactment group sends to its members) with the article about recreating Damascus and Wootz steel and I think that's were I first ran into it in an intellectual context.

The article is chock full of references which I can copy out if you are interested.

10
Creative Projects / Re: Kisame12794: Proficient Blacksmith
« on: October 31, 2011, 06:08:00 am »
@kisame12794: are you sure the name is not Jake Powning? - Jake Powell seems to have been a baseballer or musician.

What is on his site seems to be pattern welding with modern iron/steel rather then Damascus. What was originally called Damascus steel was (probably) Indian Wootz steel billets worked with the same technique (so far as I'm aware).

There's a guy in Britain by the name of Paul Binns who does very similar stuff - though more museum-quality find replicas (and probably the best reenactment blunts I have ever handled and owned).

11
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: What do weapons look like?
« on: October 12, 2011, 08:44:19 am »

EDIT OOOMMGGGGG OddTheTall HOW DOES YOUR BATTLE AXE NOT HAVE TWO SIDES,!!1

EDIT 2 ATLEAST A BATTLE AXE WITH A SPOKE ON THE OTHER SIDE
Having used both handaxes and greataxes in re-enactment combat, you don't want a batwing axe. It adds extra weight to a weapon that's already hard enough to recover after a swing.
The idea of double sided axes came from the double-bitted felling axe - you'd sharpen both sides the night before, then use one side in the morning and the other side after lunch - saves daylight.

@Quietust: I was thinking more Lucene hammer, but fair enough. I'll accept your description of a maul - its after period the my area of interest anyway.

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Creative Projects / Re: Girlinhat: Proficient Metal Crafter
« on: October 12, 2011, 07:10:25 am »
Mail excels at stopping cuts, it does a good job with stabs but blunt force (while slightly attenuated) just passes though.
That's the reason for the padding in fact - mail turns cuts and most stabs into a blunt-force attack. You don't slice a man in mail to ribbons - you beat him to death through his mailshirt.

A flanged mace would break bones and a spiked mace like a morning star would punch though the mail as would an ice pick. They are what I was referring to as the specialised mail-piercing weapons (bodkin arrows work too).

13
Creative Projects / Re: Girlinhat: Proficient Metal Crafter
« on: October 12, 2011, 05:20:45 am »
The issue with mail on its own as a stab vest is that while even mild steel butted mail will turn some knife stabs, all that will do is drive the mail links into your skin.
Mail as armour needs to be worn over some padding - a reenactor friend of mine wearing a (butted) mailshirt and padding pushed me backwards by the sharp spear in the stomach of his mail.
On the other hand, the same spear, thrown at the same mailshirt punched though the mail and both layers of padding before being stopped on the back of the mailshirt. It also broke the stand.

I've done a few tests with my European 4-in-1 butted hauberk and knife stabs.
The first knife I tried bend (this is with both hands and my entire body weight behind it)
The second one is a much sturdier Frankish-style seax (looks like a Bowie knife)
At no point did the blade actually rupture the mail - there are a couple of stabs in the padding where the point stuck thought the center of the ring but none of the rings burst.
This was done with the hauberk lying on the floor.

Overall, I think the only way to guarantee injuring somebody though mail is massive blunt force (mace etc), a lucky stab with a spear or a dedicated mail-piercing weapon.

14
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: What do weapons look like?
« on: October 11, 2011, 06:31:21 pm »
back on topic... :P

battle axe
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
war hammer
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
short sword
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
spear
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
mace
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
crossbow
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
pick
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
bow
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
pike
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
halberd
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
two-handed sword
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
long sword
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
maul
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
great axe
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
dagger
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
flail
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
morningstar
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
scimitar
Spoiler (click to show/hide)
wooden training sword
Spoiler (click to show/hide)

15
DF Suggestions / Re: Advanced weapons systems.
« on: September 15, 2011, 06:32:35 am »
I like the basic idea but I also agree with the people who say it could be too much micro-managing.

Speaking from my knowledge of Dark Age weapon construction, different weapons should take different amounts of metal - you would get many spear or handaxe heads for the same amount of metal as a sword blade. I expect you could get 30-40 arrowheads from a similar amount of metal (maybe more). Also, not all of them would really require weaponsmithing - arrowheads can be cast in large numbers and there are some swords with cast bronze hilt fittings (you'd get several of these out of a single bar).

A possible way around the extreme microing - for making arrows, have a system like this.
Blacksmith makes a 'stack of arrowheads' from 1 bar (this stack is 1 item)
Carpenter makes a 'stack of arrow shafts' from 1 log
Craftdwarf/bowyer picks up 'stack of arrowheads' and 'stack of arrow shafts' and makes 40 arrows.

Spears and handaxes would be similar - 'stack of spear/axeheads'(weaponsmith) + 'haft weapon' job(carpenter) = 4 spears/axes.
You don't need to be skilled to put heads on shafts - you just have to be patient.

Swords, however would be different - 1 'short/long/bastard sword blade'(weaponsmith) + 1 'sword hilt' (blacksmith/weaponsmith/metal crafter) = 1 short/long/bastard sword.
Probably would be reasonable to get 2 short sword blades from one bar and two or three hilts from a bar.

It would also be interesting to be able to trade weapon blades - Good sword blades are valuable trade goods.  In the dark Ages, Frankish sword blades were among the best available. Traders bought the blades from the maker and traded them to other smiths who, while they couldn't replicate the blades, were more than capable of fitting hilts.


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