Bay 12 Games Forum

Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Advanced search  

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Panando

Pages: 1 ... 32 33 [34] 35 36 ... 40
496
DF Gameplay Questions / Re: Fisherdwarfs
« on: July 05, 2012, 04:13:50 am »
While I would not defend fisherdwarves, in defence of both fisherdwarves and herbalists, both can perform their jobs safely indoors. For herbalists it's a simply matter of digging out some soil layer, and piercing the caverns. Plants grow very quickly. For fisherdwarves, you just need an indoor pool. Fish spawn by spores or something, so they can be caught pretty much anywhere, assuming they exist in the biome.

497
If you want to dig something deep - perhaps deeper than 10 z-levels, then cave-ins are the way to go:

Understanding cave-ins:
Walls and upstairs stop cave-ins
Floors and downstairs are destroyed by cave-ins
Upstairs, up/downstairs and constructed walls are destroyed or deconstructed if they themselves cave-in

The upshot of this, is that you can dig out every layer of your prospective deep pit as floors or downstairs, and the interior can be up/downstairs for access.
Once it's dug out, remove any upstairs from the bottom level so it's completely open.

Now drop a ring of constructed floors to "ring" the shaft. This will destroy all floors and downstairs under it, the core will momentarily hang in space then itself cave-in, annihilating itself.

This is regarded as the generally fasted, cleanest and safest method of doing deep shafts. You might want to experiment with this on a new embark before trying it in a real fortress though.

498
DF Gameplay Questions / Re: Fisherdwarfs
« on: July 04, 2012, 09:52:53 pm »
I feel herbalists are underrated and farmers are overrated.

You can buy heaps of plants from traders (especially elves) and they're all nice juicy stacks of 5 (for big barrels of booze). And a herbalist can easily provide supplementary plants if booze supplies get low (even a small tree farm will provide heaps and heaps and heaps of plants for a herbalist to gather). With farming you get plants whether you need them or not, while herbalism works much better for "on demand" plant production.

This assumes the fortress is fed by butchery and buying stuff from the caravans, making plants only required for booze (and obviously herbalism doesn't work for mass production of cloth or dye).

So this increasingly is my style. Although I admit I can't resist growing whip vines and sun berries.

499
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Draining Drowning Chambers (Design)
« on: July 04, 2012, 06:31:44 pm »
What about trolls?

Okay, building destroyers.

They can't destroy bridges. Prefer a raising bridge to a floodgate [although it operates in an opposite state], or a retracting bridge to a hatch [although unlike a hatch it has a delay].
They also can't destroy constructions. Fortifications are a construction. If you need to use a floodgate, or if you want to turn on a pump to deliver liquid into the trap, then protect the floodgate or pump with a fortification.
They also generally can't destroy hatches from below, I think they can if they can path through it (i.e. it's unlocked and has a staircase or ramp), but a lever-operated hatch should be indestructible from below. Although bridges are a better grade of indestructible. Grates are also indestructible from below.

Basically if your design exclusively uses bridges (as mine do) you wont have a problem with building destroyers. (although I normally put a fortification in front of the raising bridge "floodgate" just in case it's ever opened while the water is off).

The other possible hiccup is creatures so large that they jam bridges. The trick here, is use retracting bridges over open space. A retracting bridge closing over open space cannot be jammed, because nothing can stand in the way. So retracting bridges over ramps are very very reliable. If something massive stands on the retracting bridge, I believe it wont be able to re-open. So if your trap relies on retracting bridges over open space, then massive invaders will be able to jam it in the "lethal" state, but wont be able to jam it in the "safe" state.

500
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Preparing for the journey CAREFULLY
« on: July 03, 2012, 07:27:18 pm »
I disagree with not bringing at least one rope, and one bucket. Those let you get a well going quick, in case you run into a booze issue. The reasons are A) rope requires a few steps to produce which uses several materials. and B) Buckets will take wood, which might be more useful doing other things, like beds.
Wells are evil and useless. The only thing more evil and useless, is running into booze issues. If you don't make the booze supply the #1 priority in your fortress then you must be some kind of elf or a sober beardless dwarf stricken with melancholy (because even elves make booze). The reason why wells are evil and useless, is only one dwarf can draw water from a well at once, and if the water is more than 1z below the well, it takes quite a while - quite a bit longer than it takes for a dwarf to go down and up the stairs (since dwarves travel faster than water falls due to gravity it should be no surprise they also effortlessly out-run buckets being lowered on a rope). If the water is at the well level though (i.e. built directly on top of the water), what usually happens, is that one dwarf uses the well, and the other dwarves who want to use the well, just take water from "around" the well, (i.e. they're actually taking water directly from the water tile because the well is in use, and they don't bother waiting for the well to be free). And the thing is, that while a dwarf is *drinking*, he hogs the well for as long as he is drinking - which is quite a while, about 30 seconds. So the drinking time is in addition to the bucket lowering and raising time, for all that time, other dwarves can't use the well, and will either go thirsty or will just take water directly from the tile and will get the unhappy thought about the lack of a well.
Now yes it is true that a dwarf in a sober elf fortress gets an unhappy thought about the lack of a well, but this is only when they drink water from the well, and as I already said above, most the dwarves wont use the well if there is a lack of booze because drinking water from a well takes so long so all the other dwarves just stick their head down the well and lap it up and get the unhappy thought about the lack of a well anyway. And here's the point, for anything *other* than drinking water, that is, taking water to fill a pond zone, or for a hospital patient, dwarves *do not* get an unhappy thought about the lack of a well, they are perfectly happy to just scoop up a bucket of water from an open tile. But if you have a well, they use it, and it takes them longer to draw a bucket of water from the well, than to just scoop it up. Scooping water is instantaneous and infinite dwarves can do it at once. And to add insult to injury, wells don't have any water purification effect at all, at best, they might trick dwarves into taking water they would usually regard as unusable, but otherwise the bucket of water produced is just as stagnant, salty or muddy as the source tile. And that's why wells are evil and useless and Armok-damned.

Basically in practise you'll be happier if you just make an open water tile and bung a grate over it and define it as a water source zone. Nothing can fall in, nothing can crawl up out of it, dwarves can get buckets of water instantly and infinite dwarves can use/drink from it at once, and it's all faster than using a well.

501
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Preparing for the journey CAREFULLY
« on: July 03, 2012, 05:24:23 am »
You can pretty much remove everything except the picks, axes and anvil. The two pack animals can be butchered for food. So there's no need to bring food. You can gather plants and brew them and plant the seeds, so there's no need to bring seeds or plump helmets (although you can bring 10 plump helmets if you want, and brew them - it's cheaper than bringing wine). You don't need hospital supplies, because no-one should be injured before the first caravan (at which point you can buy all the cloth and thread you desire, along with buckets, splints and crutches). And you really don't need random crap like ropes. You just don't.

Having deleted all that stuff, you'll have heaps of points. Spend it on metal ores, coal, stones, logs, leather - all these raw materials will help you get your fortress up to speed very quickly.
If you want you can bring 1 lye (to make soap) and a few bags of gypsum plaster to help stock your hospital, it's cheaper than almost anything (for example bags of plaster are way cheaper than splints) and is a pretty good buy.

The only animals really worth bringing are dogs and egg-layers. You can bring a cat if you really want to, but consider trappers, since you can trap vermin, transfer them into a (constructed) cage, and later de-construct the cage and sell it to the elves for a laugh.

502
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Why Leather?
« on: July 03, 2012, 05:09:04 am »
If you use marksdwarves for reserve troops (i.e. not permanently training) then it makes a tonne of sense to give them mostly leather armour and leather or wooden shields. Why? Because when they aren't fighting, they have to haul and stuff. Putting them in full metal will slow them down quite a lot, and there's not much point in making them generally inefficient just for the sake of protecting them from attacks which they shouldn't be subjected to in the first place.
A dwarf who isn't trained in weapon skill, fighting and shield user, simply can't survive in a real battle. Your archers are not going to have those skills (well I guess unless you're cheap and danger room train them). If they are being attacked by melee invaders, they will die. So basically if the fight is easy, they'll just peg the enemy with a bolt and it'll run away or be crippled by pain. If it's a hard battle they're screwed whether they have armour or not because they have no defensive skills.

With that said, as a compromise, gauntlets, high boots and helmets don't weigh much, so you may as well give them those made of metal. A mail shirt is heavy, but, combined with the previous items, it gives full body coverage (a mail shirt covers the upper legs, and high boots cover the lower legs, and it's the same with the arms). Add leather armour and leather trousers, and they have full body metal coverage, without the significant weight of a breastplate, greaves/leggings and metal shield.

503
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Draining Drowning Chambers (Design)
« on: July 03, 2012, 04:55:47 am »
I've experimented with drowning spiral "staircases" (spiral ramps) - that is - a 1z wide path winding around an open interior. In the bottom, is a retracting bridge. Under the retracting bridge, are grates.

I think this is quite a good design. The trap is filled from above. Once everything is drowned, it is quickly drained by opening the bottom bridge, since water pressure teleports the water out. The water quickly flows down the drain, and as it flows off the spiral path, it takes items with it, and most of the items will end up caught in the grates. Then the drain is closed. Now here's the cool part, all those items are on the grates. The dwarves can now come in and grab the loot, even while the trap is drowning the next batch of victims.

The big benefit of a vertical spiral design, over a flat design, is that a flat design requires a lot of separate drains to drain quickly. With a vertical spiral path, all levels of the trap are serviced by a single drain. You can make the path in the spiral design very long, allowing whole sieges to be drowned, and still, all you need is that one bridge to drain the whole thing in moments. Quick cycle time, and easy recovery of loot. Being tall isn't a problem, particularly if the bottom level is right at your magma smelters for quick and easy recycling of loot ;).

Now this is all for a dedicated drowning trap. Obviously, if the idea is to have a section of the main entrance which can be flooded on command, the design has to be different, because you don't want to force your traffic along a long path. Still pretty easy though. Have the path dip down 1z, use ramps at each end - with the dip being the drowning chamber. Build retracting bridges in the space over those ramps. Dig downstairs into the floor of the chamber, and bridge over them (or bridge over open space along the edge of the path, if you want the system to flush items out of the trap to be caught on grates and recovered while the trap is re-used), the drains should stretch nearly the entire length of the chamber, because long bridges are cheap, so why not? All the bridges can be linked to one lever, and also a raising bridge holding back the water can be linked to the same lever. Pulling that one lever causes all the bridges to close, sealing the entrance, exit and drain, and the retracting bridge lets the water flood in. Pulling the lever again opens the drain, entrance and exit, and seals the water input, the water will drain very quickly. I like my traps to be 1-lever affairs when possible.

504
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Magma and Miners don't Mix
« on: July 01, 2012, 09:34:12 pm »
This is why real dwarves pump magma rather than letting it flow around under its own power.

505
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Electrum Weapons
« on: July 01, 2012, 06:16:29 pm »
One thing to note with Dwarven crossbows is - they don't use strings of any sort in their construction. They probably function by magnets, don't ask me how they work.

Blasphemy! The beard creates the string for it's dwarf to use in the crossbow. The reason why you don't get dwarvern beard rope is of course simple. Dwarvern beard strands are so sacred that they can ONLY be used for the shedding of blood for Armok.

This is also why goblins kidnap dwarves, it's so they can shear the dwarves to make crossbow strings...

506
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: A crash course in military?
« on: July 01, 2012, 05:23:58 pm »
If you want a head on collision between freight trains type crash course then try Fortress Defence mod. You'll get sieges within the first year (of very weak enemies, which even unarmed untrained dwarves can often take on) and will probably die by year 3, but it's great to practise military, necessity being the mother of invention and all.

507
I'm inclined to suggest recruiting everyone into marksdwarf squads. The only exception being miners (and technically woodcutters and hunters, but I have my miners do double-duty as woodcutters, and I hunt manually with marksdwarf squads). You should have perhaps half a dozen well-equipped melee dwarves. They should have full body armour coverage, preferably steel. You can get full body coverage with helmet + mail shirt + gauntlets + high boots. If you don't care about weight, also give them a breastplate and greaves. If you want to keep their mobility up, also give them leather armour and trousers (once they are legendary skill, their attributes are so high that they can bear a lot of weight with ease, but before then, it's a good idea to keep weight down a bit).
And then you should have about 40-50 marksdwarves, but more doesn't hurt. Initially these should just be equipped with a crossbow and shield. Later on, you can give them a "replace clothing" uniform, I would suggest full leather except metal gauntlets, high boots and helmet, and a wood or leather shield. Note that since they wear their uniform all the time, and have to haul, you want to keep the weight down.

The melee dwarves should train full time. Ideally they should be in squads of 2 for maximum skill gain from sparring. That's not absolutely critical though but it'll speed things up a lot.
The marksdwarves should be kept permanently inactive, they should not be assigned a barracks or archery range. To train them, order them to shoot at wildlife, or captured invaders. They will skill up very quickly this way.

In battle, try to have the marksdwarves engage first to soften the siege up. Only send the melee dwarves in once the marksdwarves have started firing (think about a medieval battle where the archerhumans fire hails of arrows on the advancing enemies, and the swordhumans only engage when the enemy get close). The idea is that the marksdwarves wound and cripple the enemy, and the melee dwarves go around executing the wounded enemy. You don't want the melee dwarves fighting multiple fresh un-injured invaders as would happen if you sent the melee dwarves in first. The only way to actually control melee dwarves is by preventing them seeing the enemy. So keep them stationed out of sight of the enemy, until it's time for them to move in, then station them within sight of the enemy, and they'll charge in like the bloodthirsty little pyschos they are.

508
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: On military and attribute training
« on: June 30, 2012, 04:24:57 pm »
I quite often do the 6 military 1 civilian embark. It's quite a lot of fun actually. Initially I have the military dwarves chop some trees, dig out some space, produce some furniture, and smelt, forge and create their own gear. Typically the civilian will be a herbalist or farmer, and will be doing his thing. Otherwise the civilian will be a weapon or armorsmith - that depends on what the preferences are like.
Typically there is no need to bring food. Just slaughter the pack animals and cook some seeds from brewing and/or do some booze cooking (since I incline more to herbalism than farming, seeds are expendable, but even if you farm, if you bought some plump helmets for brewing, you'll have plenty of spare seeds).
The 6 will be training within the first season, and the 7th will be pretty busy until the migrants arrive, usually doing things like finishing off the furniture, completing uniforms for the military dwarves, producing soap, farming, brewing, cooking etc.

I also do 4 military and 2 military embarks. With 4 military, you have enough civilians left over to pierce an aquifer if need be. With 2 military, once you're used to 6/4 military starts, you almost wont know what to do with all the spare hands. Even 2 military is enough to absolutely demolish vanilla ambushes and sieges. But if you're playing Fortress Defence mod you'll want 4, and if you're playing FD Challenge and/or Bonus, you'll want 6 - at least if you're planning to fight the sieges with pure military.

509
DF Gameplay Questions / Re: Why you no carry your weapons?
« on: June 29, 2012, 07:27:10 am »
Hunting is a good way to train marksdwarves, but having marksdwarf squads shoot at animals manually (use attack rectangle) is just as effective and works on animal men too.

510
DF Gameplay Questions / Re: What's the point of a dormitory?
« on: June 29, 2012, 07:23:54 am »
Dorms as well as making the beds freely available (which beds are anyway be default), also makes dwarves without a bed, sleep on the floor of the dorm. This way you want have dwarves sleeping in random places. Not that it really matters either way, but that's how it works.

Pages: 1 ... 32 33 [34] 35 36 ... 40