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Messages - Drazinononda

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376
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Military failure
« on: December 04, 2012, 11:00:21 pm »
Hammerdwarves don't really send things flying anymore. Wrestling throws can, but not far if both creatures are roughly the same size, and throws are uncommon in combat anyway.

Having your military train in smaller groups speeds things up: either form multiple two-man squads, or give multiple two-man-minimum "Train" orders to the same squad. Leave them training all the time; also, either seek out the binary patch or use DFHack to fix the bug that causes training to rack up "long patrol duty" negative thoughts. Give them backpacks and waterskins so that they don't always have to trek to the dining hall for sustenance.

Equipment-wise, start with helms, shields and breastplates (I'd say in that order; it's debatable that I'm correct) and then move on to the other stuff. The quickest way a dwarf can die are from liquefied brains, perforated arteries and severed spinal cords (which lead to suffocation). Shields can block any sort of attack up to and including dragon breath, and helms and body armor protect the majority of the important dwarven components. Though I did have that marksdwarf squad that tended to kill by opening arteries in the thighs...

377
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Elf Caravan Guards
« on: December 01, 2012, 06:09:28 pm »
Ironically, I got a gateway error when I posted that and wasn't sure it had gone through. I didn't dare F5 it though.

379
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Fortress defence tips?
« on: December 01, 2012, 12:58:02 pm »
Or if you don't want to worry about traps jamming at all, build upright spikes, link them to a lever, and set the lever to be pulled repeatedly. Its what I started using my last fort, works very nicely.
Is there any way (other than physical separation) to keep my soldiers from charging over the spikes and making the walls all pretty-colored? Most of them have high quality steel armor, so maybe making the spikes copper could reduce the danger to them but still be deadly to gobbos?

Don't let them see the invaders when the most obvious path to reach them crosses the spikes.  If you want them to take the fight outside for some reason, don't use a Kill order, use Station orders to move the squad step-by-step along a path to the battleground which does not include the trap corridor.

For keeping them from charging prematurely, switchbacks are your friends. An airlock can be used for the second suggestion.

380
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: marksdwarves with invisible crossbows
« on: December 01, 2012, 12:55:30 am »
The green check mark in the Equipment screen just means that the dwarf has claimed that item... not that they are actually in possession of it. It's tricky in a lot of ways: You may think your new recruit is wearing a *Steel Helm* when he's actually only got a -turkey leather cap-, and next time he gets beaned in the head with a falling rat corpse you'll lose a soldier to tragedy, which is a -10 unhappy thought to the Overseer.

I'd recommend removing "individual choice, ranged" from the uniform. You might be having some sort of equipment conflict with two weapons assigned at the same time.

381
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Tantrum spiral prevention - figured it out
« on: November 30, 2012, 11:16:17 pm »
Dwarves are always the cause of tantrum spirals. Having only one dwarf schould solve this problem  :P
(Maybe an interesting idea for a challenge: One-Dwarf-Challange. Everything have to be done with only one dwarf, all others must be killed as soon as possible.)

Another way to look at it is that with only one dwarf, every tantrum is a tantrum spiral, but they always stop after one tantrum-related death.

382
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Fortress defence tips?
« on: November 30, 2012, 11:08:34 pm »
Being bashed by lead mine carts must hurt, judging from all the blood and gore left behind.

It doesn't hurt for long, in most cases.

383
You can use military scheduling to have your marksdwarves stand within a specific area:

First, set up a burrow containing the tiles you want the marksdwarves to stand on while defending the fort, i.e. those right behind the fortifications. Name it something easy to identify, like "Marksdwarves station" or soemthing. Do NOT contain any other tiles in the burrow, e.g. "walkways" into the fort. That will cause this method of stationing not to work properly.

Second, go into your Alerts screen (m -> a) and create a new alert. Name it something so that you'll know it's the defensive alert. Then go into the scheduling screen ('s' from the military interface) and use / or * to scroll to the alert you just created (which alert you're on is displayed at the top of the scheduling screen: "Squad Schedules: [alert name]"). It should be blank, i.e. full of "no scheduled order." Scroll left or right to your Marksdwarf squad (use / or * if necessary) and press o to give an order, which should start at "Defend burrows." Select the burrow you created for your marksdwarves, change the minimum and preferred soldiers if you like, and issue the order with Shift+Enter. You should now have a single "Defend Burrows" order on your marksdwarf squad's list: press c to copy it, then scroll to each other month and paste the order in with p.

Now whenever you need your marksdwarves to move to the fortifications, just select the squad in your Squads list and press 't' to cycle through the alerts to the one you made. Your dwarves will activate and rush to stand in the little strip behind the fortifications, and won't move away from there except to get provisions, IIRC. At the least, they won't wander around as they would with a Station order.

This can be combined with a separate alert to put them on a patrol, as roy suggested. That'll keep one or two dwarves (however many you assign) nearby and stocked up at all times.

384
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: How do you guys start your forts?
« on: November 29, 2012, 09:22:00 pm »
The first thing I do when I start a new fort is take a site inventory (in the landscape architecture sense): How many trees are there, and how much should I ration the wood? What will make a good initial defensive strategy, given the terrain? Is the terrain suitable for aesthetic terraforming, or should I just leave it be and do my fancy design work underground instead? Stuff like that.

Those things all inform my fort design. For example, at my current fort, the expedition stopped in a gently sloped badlands with the edge of one of the foothills of the mountains to the north. I cut down the few trees (no more than twenty) for beds and began carving down the chalky outcropping of the hill into a more structured shape. Once everything important was moved inside, I began dropping the upper Z-level of the plain down to match the natural low of the map: my fort now stands as a two-story structure standing up from the former badlands (miraculously transformed into a grassland by the terraforming), with a walled entry hallway into the fort proper, all from natural chalk. I'm in the process of smoothing it all down now, to add to the first impression it gives to the traders who visit the fort.

I guess the key thing to how I set up the fort has more to do with "what will visitors to the fort think of it when they see it?" than anything efficiency- or otherwise function-related.

385
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: The Tournament of Brutality
« on: November 27, 2012, 11:03:30 am »
Hmm... If he survives the tournament, arm him with whatever your standard equipment is and send him to do all the dangerous stuff you don't want to lose more valuable dwarves to. Give him the custom profession name 'Arbiter.'

One could also make entire squads of shock troops formed from such outcasts. Assuming there are ever more than one alive.

386
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Fort Full of Heroes
« on: November 27, 2012, 12:22:32 am »
It feels kind of exploity, plus if your dwarves don't have enough Armour skill they'll be slowed down immensely by the extra mail.

I.E. it isn't really all that exploity. Armor layering as it exists in DF is fairly consistent with real life: it does offer more protection to the covered areas, at the cost of requiring more material and the soldiers lugging around more weight.

387
I have a squad of marksdwarves who consistently one-shot their enemies... by shooting them in the thighs and opening major arteries. It's like they know the bone bolts will just bounce off the metal helms so they say "eh, next best thing" and bleed them out on purpose.

388
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: I badly draw your reports!
« on: November 25, 2012, 06:57:19 pm »
(image)

And now you know.

Can I have some of your imagination for Christmas?

389
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: A question about fortress layout n such
« on: November 24, 2012, 10:50:52 pm »
I generally use something similar to this when building vertical underground forts. When possible, I leave the hallways out and just do rooms on the corners of the staircase and cut the doorways directly into the stair shaft. It's quicker (pathing-wise) than traveling along a hall then up into the room. If you need more than four rooms, you can also do a small-ish lobby of sorts and do eight rooms, one on each side and one on each corner.

I also only use stockpiles to get materials to their workshops. When possible, I put workshops that rely heavily on each other side-by-side: tanner's workshops next to butcher's workshops, loom-dyer's-clothier's areas, etc. That way I don't have to have separate piles for everything: for example, I put a stockpile next to the loom for thread, and one next to the dyer's workshop for dyes, and that's it for that industry. The looms pull thread from the stockpile and weave it into cloth; the dyer takes the cloth straight out of the loom and dye from the nearby pile; the clothier takes the dyed cloth from the dyer's shop to make clothes or whatever. If you had stockpiles for everything, there would be an extra hauling job in between each of those things, to take the cloth to its stockpile. Another example, furniture doesn't generally need a stockpile in my forts: I make it, then I build it, and that's it.

Along those same lines, you might consider planning out your floor order so that interdependent industries are near each other. If your farms are at the top of your fort but your clothing workshops are at the bottom, the extra hauling time to take the pig tails, dyes and bags back and forth can cut into your efficiency. If you put the mason's workshops at the top of the fort, that's that much farther to haul stone from the mines. Et cetera.

390
DF Dwarf Mode Discussion / Re: Whips: Please explain
« on: November 24, 2012, 10:16:31 pm »
Why? An edged weapon that'd have a moderately large contact area is definitely not what DF considers a whip.
Definitely? No. It's hard to say what DF considers a whip because what DF considers a whip breaks through God-metal.
Except that we don't have descriptions of whips at all. We might have it entirely wrong and DF whips actually look like chainswords. Which would kinda make more sense.

Regardless of the whips' structure, style or design, the raws give us some insight into the nature of whips in vanilla DF: they are blunt weapons with a contact area of 1 cm, size of 100 cm^3 and a velocity multiplier 2.5 times that of all other blunt weapons in the game (with the exception of flails, which being a chain weapon themselves are apparently modeled similarly). So regardless of whip performance in game, we can say with assurance that they are closer to a chain whip than an urumi.

Due to the ease of modifying the size of whips (by altering the [SIZE] token for them in item_weapon.txt -- they're the first weapon on the list in vanilla raws) and the well-supported case that this change would manipulate the game mechanics in a way appropriate to creating a more realistic simulation, I recommend this change as a solution to the current whip overpower problem.

Additional question: is the "penetration size" attribute measured in centimeters, or what? If it is, then that value should be changed in the raws as well: even against skin, a metal whip wouldn't penetrate to 2.5 inches deep. Presumably.

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