Fancy new phone (moto g6) with modern camera bullshit effects like blur.
Nice to see you're mastering photography ontop of sawmaking, just so you can take better pictures of saws.
It was 100% the camera being awesome, and get this: it's not even that great of a camera nowadays. The screen is fucking LUSH and huge and absurd for a $0.00/month phone (with the plan we have+black friday) and the glass front/back is all sleek and massy, the fingerprint reader works wonderfully, the in-system transitions/launches/etc are all crisp and satisfyingly animated, while the camera is apparently slow by modern standards, and "only" a 12 mp main/5 mp depth sensor with just the slightest hint of AI for pointing it at shit and having it go "hmmm, I think that's a cat?" which is still awesome but nowhere near what the pixel/apple/xiaomi/huawei flagship cameras do, with their dedicated machine learning chips and 40 mp sensors paired up with depth/time of flight/wide angle/etc systems.
I just want to know why all of his saws are miter saws. No 2-man saws, no limb saws... no... all have been miter saws. what gives?
A mitre saw is a backsaw used in a mitre box, mine are dovetail/carcase/tenon, plus panel and frame saws.
Was cutting teeth for a loom and need to let the blade cool down so here's a bit more explanation.
This was my first big saw, a
floppy stanley mitre saw with a chintzy yellow plastic mitre box. I hacksawed the blade down from being 3~ inches deep (teeth to spine) and left it 12 inches long (toe to heel, which is nearest your hand) but refiled the teeth from rip cut profile (flat little chisels that scrape wood along the grain best, imagine cutting a board longways so the grain fibers to either side are intact) to a cross cut profile (sloped back to make little shark tooth looking knives that slice the fibers to make it more effective working across the grain to sever them cleanly) and rehandled it a couple times.
Big chunky here is a panel saw, no back, blade is less stiff so care has to be taken to keep cuts straight, with the tradeoff being you can continue cutting long past the point where a backsaw would hit the spine bottom out, usually these are what people think of when you talk about a handsaw, they are common where people are framing houses and whatnot because it's faster to grab a handsaw and knock a piece off of a 2x4 than take it over to your table or circular saw, set it up, make the cut, blah, just tear through it with the panel and move on. Big teeth, crosscut profile, fucking shreds right through wood like a maniac... really messy ends that need to be cleaned up though.
My frame saws are tensioned to use flexible little blades that are good at being turned while you cut, to form curves or do stuff like pop the waste out of a dovetail joint quicker than chiseling it out would be.
A tenon saw is kinda a jack of all trades but ideally it's set up so you can mark the ends of a piece of wood and take off squared up slices of the end, two cuts on the shoulders, two cuts on the cheeks, and you get say... a 2 by 4 with a 1 by 3 section (minus half an inch front/back, minus half an inch on either side) on the end that you can fit into a matching slot or mortise on another piece to produce a strong and stable joint. It was longer but I cut it down to make the cute little dovetail saw beside it which I use because it has a more aggressive tooth profile and slightly thicker blade than my main dovetail saw, allowing me to quickly widen a cut if needed.
Lastly, the fanciest of the lot, my 10 inch dovetail saw, brass back gives a nice weight and stiffness, high teeth per inch and thin blade gives crisp flawless little kerfs that need almost zero cleanup, and the handle/tooth shape/practice let me start and finish a cut for a dovetail joint in a single thrust most of the time. It is used after I've prepared stock with the other saws and gotten it all sized and squared and marked up for jointing and assembly.
I don't have enough room to have the
sort of mitre saw I would get, and it's mostly useful for when you're doing like production line work on pieces for furniture or whatnot. When you know you'll need like 20 3 foot long boards with a 35 degree mitre on the ends? That's when you want the big 26+ inch mitre saw with the slides and lockable fence.
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